Эверест долго проверял его на прочность, покорившись только с пятой попытки. Он никогда не останавливается на достигнутом, и за его плечами десятки других покоренных вершин. Он такой один, он — Александр Абрамов.

Из своих 53 лет Александр Абрамов 36 лет профессионально занимается альпинизмом. По его собственному признанию, непосредственно в горах он провел в общей сложности больше 10 лет своей жизни. Застать его на равнине и тем более в Москве — огромная удача. Это интервью мы записывали в течение нескольких дней, когда у Александра были свободные минуты в паузах между тренировками очередной группы, которую он готовил к восхождению на Эверест.

PERFECT: Александр, список ваших спортивных достижений по-настоящему впечатляет: многократный призер чемпионатов СССР, России, Москвы и даже Украины, мастер спорта, многократный покоритель Эвереста… Но ваши отношения с высочайшей точкой планеты складывались, мягко говоря, непросто. Помните, с какой попытки он вам покорился?
А.А.: Мы с Эверестом действительно присматривались друг к другу довольно долго. В 1991 году я стал чемпионом СССР, получил звание мастера спорта. В 1992 году меня впервые пригласили в российскую команду, которая готовилась к восхождению на Эверест. Над такими предложениями долго не раздумывают, потому что Эверест — это пик карьеры любого альпиниста. Отбор был жесточайший: из 19 кандидатов в команду в итоге попали всего 5 человек. Однако в тот год на Эверест я так и не поднялся, главным образом из-за недостаточно глубокого знакомства со спецификой Гималаев.
Следующая моя экспедиция в Гималаи была уже в 1997 году, и в ней я выступал в качестве оператора. Была 100-процентная убежденность, что по прошествии 5 лет, когда я изрядно заматерел и набрался опыта, Джомолунгма обязательно мне покорится, но откровенно не повезло с погодой, к тому же произошло трагическое происшествие с руководителем экспедиции.
Следующую попытку покорить Эверест я предпринял в 1999 году, собрав экспедицию, в которой гидом выступал уже я сам. Своей целью тогда мы выбрали не Джомолунгму, а шестую по высоте горную вершину мира — Чо-Ойю (8188 метров над уровнем моря). Сходили очень удачно (зашла вся команда), и это придало сил, уверенности в том, что на будущий год Эверест уж точно покорится.
В 2000 году мы довольно быстро нашли спонсорские деньги, организовали экспедицию, но ошиблись с погодой, к тому же у нас оказались абсолютно негодные шерпы. В результате из трех попыток восхождения успехом увенчалась только одна, когда один из членов нашей экспедиции все-таки покорил Эверест, но это опять был не я.
Следующая попытка восхождения состоялась в 2003 году, когда я возглавил первую в нашей стране коммерческую экспедицию, которая шла на Эверест на свои собственные деньги. Сказать, что было тяжело, — ничего не сказать. Экономить приходилось практически на всем, кроме безопасности. Сами устанавливали все промежуточные лагеря, сами таскали вещи (опять не повезло с шерпами). В тот год на вершину поднялись 3 человека из 12, и меня среди них снова не было.
А в 2004 году Эверест наконец-то решил сдаться. С пятой попытки. За следующие 13 лет я еще 7 раз поднимался на высочайшую вершину мира и покорил высочайшие горные пики всех континентов, включая Антарктиду, — как говорят в наших кругах, вошел в клуб покорителей семи вершин.

PERFECT: Если честно, просто фантастическая история для инженера по образованию, которому «светило» всю жизнь паять платы.
А.А.: Да, по диплому я ни много ни мало инженер —электрофизик, окончил Московский энергетический институт, но по специальности отработал 2 года и 2 месяца, после чего со скандалом ушел в горы и так больше и не вернулся.

PERFECT: Если оставить за скобками профессиональных спортсменов, то кого сильнее всего тянет в горы?
А.А.: Как правило, это уже добившиеся определенного положения в обществе мужчины в возрасте 40 лет или около того.
Вопрос финансового обеспечения семьи у них давно решен. Почти у каждого — стабильно работающий бизнес. Дети почти выросли. Квартира куплена, дача построена, выезд за рубеж — не проблема. Проблема найти точку на карте, где еще не был. И вот что такому человеку делать?
Строить еще один загородный дом, покупать пятый автомобиль, заводить очередного ребенка? Все это, конечно, неплохо, но уже было. И в какой-то момент и приходит мысль о том, что стоит попробовать что-то совершенно новое. Именно поэтому успешные и респектабельные люди вдруг начинают увлекаться парашютным спортом, участвуют в ралли и идут в горы.

PERFECT: Если говорить о восхождении на Эверест не как о спортивном достижении, а как о коммерческой услуге, сколько может стоить такой экстремальный опыт?
А.А.: Разброс цен очень большой. Можно найти предложение и за 15 тысяч долларов, и за 50, и за 100. Все отличие только в том, что первый продукт адресован профессиональным спортсменам, которые готовы оплачивать минимальный набор услуг, большую часть работы выполняя самостоятельно, второй — опытным альпинистам, которые тем не менее готовы доплачивать за комфорт, а третий — адресован альпинистам со стажем 2—3года, которые, однако, захотели безопасно покорить высочайшую точку планеты.

PERFECT: Наверное, самый неудобный вопрос из всех — о том, что в горах, по большому счету, каждый сам за себя. Склоны Эвереста, чем дальше, тем больше напоминают кладбище. Почему альпинисты зачастую проходят мимо погибающих или находящихся в трудной ситуации людей? Это невозможность помочь или нежелание подвергать себя дополнительному риску?
А.А.: Скажу исключительно за себя. Давайте смоделируем ситуацию. Я веду на вершину группу из 10 человек, каждый из которых по 3 года готовился к этому восхождению. Мы прекрасно экипированы, у нас есть кислород, проверенные шерпы, и вдруг на маршруте мы встречаем бедолагу, практически без ничего, который решил покорить Эверест в одиночку, условно говоря, в домашних тапочках, а теперь отдыхает на камне, осознав, что у него не осталось ни сил, ни возможностей ни дойти до вершины, ни спуститься вниз. Я понимаю, в какой ситуации он находится, но могу ли я сказать людям, которых я веду, что, ребята, сейчас мы все вместе несем этого горемыку вниз, потому что у него не было ни ума, ни денег как следует подготовиться к восхождению, а сами поднимемся как-нибудь потом? Разумеется, нет. Единственное, что я могу сделать и обязательно сделаю, — попробую оказать помощь попавшему в затруднительную ситуацию альпинисту на обратном пути.

PERFECT: Кого Эверест любит больше, мужчин или женщин? И как вы относитесь к тому, что женщины наравне с мужчинами рискуют жизнями и покоряют восьмитысячники?
А.А.: Лучше спросите об этом у Людмилы Коробешко, которая за свою альпинистскую жизнь покорила более 70 высочайших вершин мира, в том числе и Эверест. Горе, по большому счету, все равно, кто на нее взбирается. Главное: сильный человек или слабый, выносливый или нет, стрессоустойчивый или подверженный приступам паники. По своему опыту могу сказать, что порой женщины оказываются сильнее мужчин. Не девушки, а именно женщины. Казалось бы, тяжело невероятно, мужики уже наелись, задыхаются, из последних сил идут, а она еще молодцом держится. Спрашиваю, как так, тяжело же… А она отвечает: «Это рожать было тяжело, а тут пока терпимо»…

165 Replies to “Семь вершин Александра Абрамова”

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