Эверест долго проверял его на прочность, покорившись только с пятой попытки. Он никогда не останавливается на достигнутом, и за его плечами десятки других покоренных вершин. Он такой один, он — Александр Абрамов.

Из своих 53 лет Александр Абрамов 36 лет профессионально занимается альпинизмом. По его собственному признанию, непосредственно в горах он провел в общей сложности больше 10 лет своей жизни. Застать его на равнине и тем более в Москве — огромная удача. Это интервью мы записывали в течение нескольких дней, когда у Александра были свободные минуты в паузах между тренировками очередной группы, которую он готовил к восхождению на Эверест.

PERFECT: Александр, список ваших спортивных достижений по-настоящему впечатляет: многократный призер чемпионатов СССР, России, Москвы и даже Украины, мастер спорта, многократный покоритель Эвереста… Но ваши отношения с высочайшей точкой планеты складывались, мягко говоря, непросто. Помните, с какой попытки он вам покорился?
А.А.: Мы с Эверестом действительно присматривались друг к другу довольно долго. В 1991 году я стал чемпионом СССР, получил звание мастера спорта. В 1992 году меня впервые пригласили в российскую команду, которая готовилась к восхождению на Эверест. Над такими предложениями долго не раздумывают, потому что Эверест — это пик карьеры любого альпиниста. Отбор был жесточайший: из 19 кандидатов в команду в итоге попали всего 5 человек. Однако в тот год на Эверест я так и не поднялся, главным образом из-за недостаточно глубокого знакомства со спецификой Гималаев.
Следующая моя экспедиция в Гималаи была уже в 1997 году, и в ней я выступал в качестве оператора. Была 100-процентная убежденность, что по прошествии 5 лет, когда я изрядно заматерел и набрался опыта, Джомолунгма обязательно мне покорится, но откровенно не повезло с погодой, к тому же произошло трагическое происшествие с руководителем экспедиции.
Следующую попытку покорить Эверест я предпринял в 1999 году, собрав экспедицию, в которой гидом выступал уже я сам. Своей целью тогда мы выбрали не Джомолунгму, а шестую по высоте горную вершину мира — Чо-Ойю (8188 метров над уровнем моря). Сходили очень удачно (зашла вся команда), и это придало сил, уверенности в том, что на будущий год Эверест уж точно покорится.
В 2000 году мы довольно быстро нашли спонсорские деньги, организовали экспедицию, но ошиблись с погодой, к тому же у нас оказались абсолютно негодные шерпы. В результате из трех попыток восхождения успехом увенчалась только одна, когда один из членов нашей экспедиции все-таки покорил Эверест, но это опять был не я.
Следующая попытка восхождения состоялась в 2003 году, когда я возглавил первую в нашей стране коммерческую экспедицию, которая шла на Эверест на свои собственные деньги. Сказать, что было тяжело, — ничего не сказать. Экономить приходилось практически на всем, кроме безопасности. Сами устанавливали все промежуточные лагеря, сами таскали вещи (опять не повезло с шерпами). В тот год на вершину поднялись 3 человека из 12, и меня среди них снова не было.
А в 2004 году Эверест наконец-то решил сдаться. С пятой попытки. За следующие 13 лет я еще 7 раз поднимался на высочайшую вершину мира и покорил высочайшие горные пики всех континентов, включая Антарктиду, — как говорят в наших кругах, вошел в клуб покорителей семи вершин.

PERFECT: Если честно, просто фантастическая история для инженера по образованию, которому «светило» всю жизнь паять платы.
А.А.: Да, по диплому я ни много ни мало инженер —электрофизик, окончил Московский энергетический институт, но по специальности отработал 2 года и 2 месяца, после чего со скандалом ушел в горы и так больше и не вернулся.

PERFECT: Если оставить за скобками профессиональных спортсменов, то кого сильнее всего тянет в горы?
А.А.: Как правило, это уже добившиеся определенного положения в обществе мужчины в возрасте 40 лет или около того.
Вопрос финансового обеспечения семьи у них давно решен. Почти у каждого — стабильно работающий бизнес. Дети почти выросли. Квартира куплена, дача построена, выезд за рубеж — не проблема. Проблема найти точку на карте, где еще не был. И вот что такому человеку делать?
Строить еще один загородный дом, покупать пятый автомобиль, заводить очередного ребенка? Все это, конечно, неплохо, но уже было. И в какой-то момент и приходит мысль о том, что стоит попробовать что-то совершенно новое. Именно поэтому успешные и респектабельные люди вдруг начинают увлекаться парашютным спортом, участвуют в ралли и идут в горы.

PERFECT: Если говорить о восхождении на Эверест не как о спортивном достижении, а как о коммерческой услуге, сколько может стоить такой экстремальный опыт?
А.А.: Разброс цен очень большой. Можно найти предложение и за 15 тысяч долларов, и за 50, и за 100. Все отличие только в том, что первый продукт адресован профессиональным спортсменам, которые готовы оплачивать минимальный набор услуг, большую часть работы выполняя самостоятельно, второй — опытным альпинистам, которые тем не менее готовы доплачивать за комфорт, а третий — адресован альпинистам со стажем 2—3года, которые, однако, захотели безопасно покорить высочайшую точку планеты.

PERFECT: Наверное, самый неудобный вопрос из всех — о том, что в горах, по большому счету, каждый сам за себя. Склоны Эвереста, чем дальше, тем больше напоминают кладбище. Почему альпинисты зачастую проходят мимо погибающих или находящихся в трудной ситуации людей? Это невозможность помочь или нежелание подвергать себя дополнительному риску?
А.А.: Скажу исключительно за себя. Давайте смоделируем ситуацию. Я веду на вершину группу из 10 человек, каждый из которых по 3 года готовился к этому восхождению. Мы прекрасно экипированы, у нас есть кислород, проверенные шерпы, и вдруг на маршруте мы встречаем бедолагу, практически без ничего, который решил покорить Эверест в одиночку, условно говоря, в домашних тапочках, а теперь отдыхает на камне, осознав, что у него не осталось ни сил, ни возможностей ни дойти до вершины, ни спуститься вниз. Я понимаю, в какой ситуации он находится, но могу ли я сказать людям, которых я веду, что, ребята, сейчас мы все вместе несем этого горемыку вниз, потому что у него не было ни ума, ни денег как следует подготовиться к восхождению, а сами поднимемся как-нибудь потом? Разумеется, нет. Единственное, что я могу сделать и обязательно сделаю, — попробую оказать помощь попавшему в затруднительную ситуацию альпинисту на обратном пути.

PERFECT: Кого Эверест любит больше, мужчин или женщин? И как вы относитесь к тому, что женщины наравне с мужчинами рискуют жизнями и покоряют восьмитысячники?
А.А.: Лучше спросите об этом у Людмилы Коробешко, которая за свою альпинистскую жизнь покорила более 70 высочайших вершин мира, в том числе и Эверест. Горе, по большому счету, все равно, кто на нее взбирается. Главное: сильный человек или слабый, выносливый или нет, стрессоустойчивый или подверженный приступам паники. По своему опыту могу сказать, что порой женщины оказываются сильнее мужчин. Не девушки, а именно женщины. Казалось бы, тяжело невероятно, мужики уже наелись, задыхаются, из последних сил идут, а она еще молодцом держится. Спрашиваю, как так, тяжело же… А она отвечает: «Это рожать было тяжело, а тут пока терпимо»…

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  439. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  455. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  467. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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  479. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

  480. Zune and iPod: Most people compare the Zune to the Touch, but after seeing how slim and surprisingly small and light it is, I consider it to be a rather unique hybrid that combines qualities of both the Touch and the Nano. It’s very colorful and lovely OLED screen is slightly smaller than the touch screen, but the player itself feels quite a bit smaller and lighter. It weighs about 2/3 as much, and is noticeably smaller in width and height, while being just a hair thicker.

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  497. Between me and my husband we’ve owned more MP3 players over the years than I can count, including Sansas, iRivers, iPods (classic & touch), the Ibiza Rhapsody, etc. But, the last few years I’ve settled down to one line of players. Why? Because I was happy to discover how well-designed and fun to use the underappreciated (and widely mocked) Zunes are.

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  525. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.