Buccellati — это не мастерская декоративно-прикладного искусства, а самый настоящий храм резьбы и гравировки.

Почти сто лет успеха позволяют ювелирному дому Buccellati занимать особое место. Начиная с года своего основания — 1919-го, его ювелиры никогда не оглядывались на модные веяния, они кропотливо возводили стиль trompe-l’œil в абсолют. И действительно, только взгляните сегодня на работы современных мастеров — украшения из золота и платины выглядят словно роскошные кружева, витые атласные шнуры или старинный плотный шелк. Кажется, что это просто какое-то волшебство…
Конечно, ювелиры не ограничиваются только созданием «текстиля», в их руках драгоценный металл может превратиться и в крыло бабочки, и в прекрасные лепестки цветов, и в узор сетки-остова из хитина. Каким образом на этих роскошных произведениях искусства закреплены бриллианты, рубины и изумруды, понять просто невозможно, одно слово — чудо!
Ювелирный дом Buccellati — это не мастерская декоративно-прикладного искусства, а самый настоящий храм резьбы и гравировки. И здесь работа ювелира над самым простым, на первый взгляд, кольцом с шелковым финишем занимает сотню часов, а то и больше…
Но давайте перенесемся в 1919 год, когда Марио и его сын Джанмария Буччеллати сказали свое твердое «нет» влиянию французской школы, которая в то время с радостью отказалась от имперских гирлянд в пользу узоров ар-нуво и театрального востока ар-деко. Они не желали подстраиваться под веяния Нового Света и украшать голливудских звезд россыпями самоцветов. Буччеллати решили остаться верны традициям родной Италии, выступив в некотором смысле как патриоты своей страны. Ювелирный дом продолжил цитировать исторические украшения Италии, демонстрируя ее романтические настроения. Эта непоколебимая уверенность в том, что не нужно оглядываться на других мастеров, а идти по намеченному пути, позволила марке стать одним из флагманов в ювелирной сфере.Сегодня дело своих предков продолжает Андреа Буччеллати, внук основателя ювелирного дома. Он почти ничего не поменял в работе над украшениями — ручной труд все так же высоко ценится, и даже мастера работают резцами и сверлами, какие использовались еще в XVIII веке. Конечно, современные возможности и техники также применяются, но работа со старинными инструментами позволяет добиться филигранной точности. Только вообразите: с помощью таких резцов и сверл можно прорезать в цельном куске золота очень тонкий орнамент или покрыть украшение несколькими видами гравировки так, что на металле не останется ни миллиметра гладкой поверхности! Он называет своих ювелиров не иначе как золотых дел мастерами, и это абсолютно заслуженно.
Ювелирный дом Buccellati чуть ли не единственный из ювелирных домов, который может позволить себе цитировать самого себя и сделать лишь небольшие поправки на моду.
В мастерских не увидишь эскизов. Чаще всего мастера готовят гипсовые слепки украшений из прошлого марки. Или и вовсе обычный тетрадный листок, на котором нынешний глава Андреа Буччеллати сделал торопливый набросок шариковой ручкой. В мастерских ювелиры проводят много часов подряд, задерживаясь допоздна, чтобы из девственно чистой и гладкой золотой пластины получилось произведение искусства. Это настолько тонкая работа, что малейшая ошибка может привести к тому, что все придется делать заново, — иначе это уже не будет работа в стиле trompe-l’œil. Именно такой подход к делу оправдывает высокие цены на украшения марки, которые сегодня продаются по всему миру, в том числе и в России. Кстати, в нашей стране Buccellati присутствует вот уже более десяти лет. И, как говорит Андреа Буччеллати, успех драгоценностей в России связан с тем, что у русских и итальянцев много общего, русские женщины полны страсти, эмоций, им нравятся такие украшения. И многие уникальные и смелые изделия нашли своего покупателя именно здесь. Словно вторя словам своих предков, основателей компании, их внук как мантру повторяет: у Buccellati нет и не было задачи «быть в тренде» или «быть модными». У марки свой самобытный стиль, для компании тенденции не имеют значения, она живет в своем мире.

298 Replies to “Искусство вне времени”

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